Hello dear followers, Finally my pattern making classes are started. From now, I will regularly share all pattern drafting lessons with you. The previous courses I took part was from Helen Josef’s method of pattern making that was very time consuming, but the method we are going to learn together is the Muller method that is very simpler and up-to-date. So if you want to learn pattern design step by step from the very first point, be prepared with the following materials and start learning with me.
Tools and Supplies for pattern design
For pattern making in muller Drafting system you will need following tools and supplies.
- L-Square , 1:1 scale and 1:2 scale
- Hip Curve (Pistol rulers)
- Paper roll, width 60 cm
- Tape Measure
- Pen and pencil
- Paper Sicssors
- Colored papers
Measuring The Body
Guide to body measurement:
To measure the body correctly, your model should wear a minimum of clothes or stretch ones to give you the right sizes. At first, we will only focus on the skirt patterns, so you only need three sizes for beginning, waistline, hips, and chest (this one only for knowing the approximate size)
To measure your model’s waist, first, tighten a rope, on the smallest part of her abdominal. While measuring try not to touch the stomach of the model because he/she will shrink muscles and this will lead you to the wrong size. If the model wears loose or thick clothes, you have to subtract 2 cm then what it shows on tape.
Measuring Body for Skirt Basic Pattern
- Waistline: Place the tape in one side of the waist and round it to the whole waistline and read the number when two points of your tape meet each other.
- Hips: put the tape on most outstanding part of hips, round it to the perimeter of hip, continue as directed for the waist.
- Skirt length: from the waistline to where you want to have the edge of your skirt.
The length of a skirt depends on everyone’s height and model of clothes.
Measurements for standard size 40:
I will make all pattern base on size 40, however, you can use your own body size, but it is better to practice with standard one first.
- Waist: 70
- Hips: 100
- The height of buttocks: 20
- Skirt length: 60
All dimensions are in centimeters