Hi Dears, Today you will learn the advanced method of drafting straight skirt based on Muller German. This straight skirt block is the basic skirt pattern, which pretty much all other skirt patterns are made with. I have already shared a simple and quick method to design straight skirt pattern. But this one is more expert with better fit. To start with, you need three measurements: your waist, your hips, and your desired skirt length. If your ready, prepare the required tools and follow the instruction.
Tools & Supplies
- Muller L-Square ruler
- Pattern Paper
- Long ruler
- Tape measure
- pen or marker
To draft this pattern, you will need the following measurements:
- distance form waist to hip (hip depth)
- Total length of skirt
In this pattern I’m using the size 40 measurements with knee-length skirt. you can create patterns with your own measurements. Do not forget that if your have a abnormal body shape, you need more knowledge for altering the pattern that is not included in this post.
Waist: 70cm – Hip: 100cm – Waist to hip (hip depth): 20cm – Skirt length: 60cm
For more information on how to measure them, you can refer to my previous post (Pattern making lessons in Muller method).
Drafting Straight Skirt Pattern
- 1-3= Skirt length
- 1-8 = 1/2 hip plus (1 to 2)cm ease
ex: 100/2=50 + 2 = 52
1 to 2 centimeter ease is depending on thickness of your fabric. If your skirt fabric is to thick with no elasticity consider 2 cm ease otherwise 1 cm ease will be enough.
- 8-9 = Skirt length
- Connect 3 to 9.
- 1-2 = Hip depth
square out from 2 to 4
- Find the middle point of 1 and 8, square down to the bottom. (6-7)
This line is the side seam.
- 6-10 = Continue the side seam 1 cm above the rectangle and draw a short line form the point along line 1-8
- The right half is the front pattern and the left half in back pattern of the skirt
Calculating Front and back Darts
The size of dart intake is obtained form the difference between hip and waist measurements. There are two methods for calculating the dart intake. The simplest way is to specify point 11 on the line 1-8.
- On the line 1-8, Mark the half of waist plus 1 cm ease and name it as point 11.
- measure the distance between 8-11. This Number is Total Darts intake.
Second method of calculating dart intake
- 1/2 hip measurement + (1-2cm )ease minus 1/2 waist measurement
- (50+2) – (35+1) = 16
Calculating Basic Skirt Darts
The calculating basic skirt darts is complex and it depends on the body proportion. In normal body type, that doesn’t have wide hip, abdomen or dominant spine curve, the half amount take off on both side of side seam line and remaining amount will go into the one front dart and one or two back darts.
Dart Intake for skirt size 40 with 2cm ease
- 16 /2 = 8 Total Side seam Curves
- 8 / 2 = 4 + 0.5 = 4.5 Side Seam Curve in Front
- 8 / 2 = 4 – 0.5 = 3.5 Side Seam Curve in Back
- 16 / 2 = 8cm Total Darts intake
- 2.5cm Front Dart
- 8 – 2.5 = 5.5cm Total Back Darts
- First dart = 3cm and Second Dart = 2.5cm
- Lets Start form side seam curve. From point 10, measure 4.5cm to the left and mark.
- Draw waist curve with curve ruler and connect point 10 to 6-8.
- From point 10, measure 3.5cm to the right and mark.
- Draw waist curve with curve ruler and connect point 10 to 1-6.
- From point 5, mark 3cm upward. Then draw side seam curve, using curve side of the ruler.
Front Dart Placement
- Mark 6 to 8cm, from the side seam curve. This is center of front dart.
- Mark one half of front dart on both side of this point.
- From center of dart square down 8 to 10 cm.( 8cm for junior and 10cm for tall)
- From point 8, measure 5 to 7 cm and mark. This is the starting point of wide back dart.
- From that point mark first dart amount (3cm).
- Mark the center of dart and square down 13 to 15cm.
Dart height varies depending on the hip depth and dart size. If the dart size is more than 3cm and your tall, dart height should be 15cm.
- Draw dart legs.
- For the second and smaller dart, measure form the side seam to the first dart leg with tape measure and mark the mid point. this is the center point of second dart.
- square down 11 to 13 cm.
- Mark the one half of second dart amount on both side of center point.
- Draw dart legs.
The Basic skirt pattern is almost finished. the final step is to add some soundness to pattern.
- Close the dart and redesign the waist-line curve with curve side of ruler. ( red line)
- Cut the pattern while the dart is closed.
Now your basic skirt pattern block is ready.