Make Basic Bodice Sloper - Patten making courses

DIY Basic Pattern For Bodice

Best Basic Bodice Sloper Tutorial
Hi friends, today I want to unlock the secret of clothing design by showing you how to draft female bodice sloper. You will learn how to draft a perfectly fitting sloper for your own body shape and measurements. The basic bodice sloper is the base of pattern making and is the foundation of many of your design and you must have it in your library of slopers.
before starting you need to take body measurements by using the guide in “How to Take Body Measurements” and full fill the measurements chart

Tools and Supplies

  • 1 piece of unlined pattern paper
  • L-Square
  • French curve
  • Paper scissor

How to make Front Bodice Pattern

A to B = Full length (6), plus ⅛ inch, Draw the line and label.
A to C = Across shoulder (14), less ⅛ inch then Square 3” line down from C line.
B to D = Center front length (5) Mark and square out 4”.
B to E = Bust arc (17), plus ¼ inch
Square out from B, and then square up 11” from E

B to G = Shoulder slope (7), plus ⅛”. G touches C line.
G to H = Bust depth (9). Mark on the G–B line.
G to I = Shoulder length (13). Square down from I to intersect with D line.
J to K = Bust span, plus ¼” (10). Square from J at center front through H to K.
D to L = One-half of D to J. Mark down from D.
L to M = Across chest, plus ¼” (15). Square a guideline up and down from M.
B to F = Dart placement (20). Square down 3/16 from F.

I to N = New strap, plus ⅛” (8) . Draw line from I to intersect E line.
N to O = Side length (11).
N to P = Mark 1 1/4 inch out from N.
O to P = Side length line is directed to P, and ends when equal to N to O. Draw line from P to F.

Completing waist measurement:

P to Q = Waist arc (19), plus 1/4″ ease, less B to F.
Dart legs: Draw a line from K to F and measure. Draw dart leg from K through Q equal to K to F. Label R.
Dart point: Center a point 5/8 inch from bust point. Redraw dart legs from this point to F and R.
Draw slight curved lines from B to F and R to P.

Armhole: Draw armhole curve with rule touching G, M, and square line. Do not follow curve past square line.
Neckline: Draw curve from I to D passing inside the angle line by 1/8″.

How to make back bodice pattern

A to B = Full length (6).
A to C = Across shoulder (14). Square 3 inches down from C.
B to D = Center back length (5). Mark and square out 4 inches.
B to E = Back arc (18), plus 3/4 inch. Square up from E.

A to F = Back neck (12), plus 1/8 inch.
B to G = Shoulder slope (7), plus 1/8 inch .
F to H = Shoulder length (13), plus ½ inch. Line may pass G. Square down from F to D line.
B to I = Dart placement (20) .
B to J = Waist arc (19), plus dart intake of 1 1/2″ and 1/4″ (ease). (Junior/petite sizes: add 1 inch dart intake, plus 1/4-inch ease.)
I to K = Dart intake. Mark center and label L.

J to M = Square down 3/16 inch.
M to N = Side length (11).
L to O = Square up from L 1 inch less than M to N.

Draw dart legs from O, 1/8 inch past I and K.
Draw slightly curved lines from K to M and from B to I.

F to P = One-half of F to H. Mark.
P to Q = Draw a 3-inch line in the direction of point O (indicated by broken line).
P to R = 1/4 inch. Mark. Draw dart leg from Q 1/8 inch past R and connect to F.
Mark 1/4 inch from P. Draw other dart leg from Q equal to dart leg Q–R, and connect to H.
D to S = One-fourth of D to B. Mark.
S to T = Across back, plus 1/4 inch (16). Square up and down from T, as shown.

Armhole: Draw armhole with the French curve touching H, T, and N. The curve should touch square line.
Neckline: Draw a 3/8-inch angle line from the corner. Draw neckline from F, angle line and ending close to D.

Reference :  PATTERNMAKING for Fashion Design  by HELEN JOSEPH-ARMSTRONG

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Comments (18)

In reference to p to q=waist arc (19), plus 1/4 ease…
What does “LESS B TO F” mean?? Thanks in advance

Hello Dear
It means ( waist arc + 1/4″ ) – ( Distance between B to F )

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