before starting you need to take body measurements by using the guide in “How to Take Body Measurements” and full fill the measurements chart
Tools and Supplies
- 1 piece of unlined pattern paper
- French curve
- Paper scissor
How to make Front Bodice Pattern
A to B = Full length (6), plus ⅛ inch, Draw the line and label.
A to C = Across shoulder (14), less ⅛ inch then Square 3” line down from C line.
B to D = Center front length (5) Mark and square out 4”.
B to E = Bust arc (17), plus ¼ inch
Square out from B, and then square up 11” from E
B to G = Shoulder slope (7), plus ⅛”. G touches C line.
G to H = Bust depth (9). Mark on the G–B line.
G to I = Shoulder length (13). Square down from I to intersect with D line.
J to K = Bust span, plus ¼” (10). Square from J at center front through H to K.
D to L = One-half of D to J. Mark down from D.
L to M = Across chest, plus ¼” (15). Square a guideline up and down from M.
B to F = Dart placement (20). Square down 3/16 from F.
I to N = New strap, plus ⅛” (8) . Draw line from I to intersect E line.
N to O = Side length (11).
N to P = Mark 1 1/4 inch out from N.
O to P = Side length line is directed to P, and ends when equal to N to O. Draw line from P to F.
Completing waist measurement:
P to Q = Waist arc (19), plus 1/4″ ease, less B to F.
Dart legs: Draw a line from K to F and measure. Draw dart leg from K through Q equal to K to F. Label R.
Dart point: Center a point 5/8 inch from bust point. Redraw dart legs from this point to F and R.
Draw slight curved lines from B to F and R to P.
Armhole: Draw armhole curve with rule touching G, M, and square line. Do not follow curve past square line.
Neckline: Draw curve from I to D passing inside the angle line by 1/8″.
How to make back bodice pattern
A to B = Full length (6).
A to C = Across shoulder (14). Square 3 inches down from C.
B to D = Center back length (5). Mark and square out 4 inches.
B to E = Back arc (18), plus 3/4 inch. Square up from E.
A to F = Back neck (12), plus 1/8 inch.
B to G = Shoulder slope (7), plus 1/8 inch .
F to H = Shoulder length (13), plus ½ inch. Line may pass G. Square down from F to D line.
B to I = Dart placement (20) .
B to J = Waist arc (19), plus dart intake of 1 1/2″ and 1/4″ (ease). (Junior/petite sizes: add 1 inch dart intake, plus 1/4-inch ease.)
I to K = Dart intake. Mark center and label L.
J to M = Square down 3/16 inch.
M to N = Side length (11).
L to O = Square up from L 1 inch less than M to N.
Draw dart legs from O, 1/8 inch past I and K.
Draw slightly curved lines from K to M and from B to I.
F to P = One-half of F to H. Mark.
P to Q = Draw a 3-inch line in the direction of point O (indicated by broken line).
P to R = 1/4 inch. Mark. Draw dart leg from Q 1/8 inch past R and connect to F.
Mark 1/4 inch from P. Draw other dart leg from Q equal to dart leg Q–R, and connect to H.
D to S = One-fourth of D to B. Mark.
S to T = Across back, plus 1/4 inch (16). Square up and down from T, as shown.
Armhole: Draw armhole with the French curve touching H, T, and N. The curve should touch square line.
Neckline: Draw a 3/8-inch angle line from the corner. Draw neckline from F, angle line and ending close to D.
Reference : PATTERNMAKING for Fashion Design by HELEN JOSEPH-ARMSTRONG