A-lined flared skirt is one the most pretty and useful skirts. Designing the a-line skirt pattern is relatively simple. But to draft its pattern you should be familiar with how to draft basic skirt pattern. Don’t cut flare skirt without a pattern because by using the pattern, it will make better fit specially by the German drafting method. Follow me in sarvinstyle to learn how to make your own a-line skirt pattern in 8 steps.
To design a-lined skirt pattern you will need straight skirt pattern (Basic Skirt). If you haven’t prepared its pattern yet, make it before starting this course.
Tools and supplies
- Muller L-square ruler or hip curve
- Pattern paper
- Gap Tape
- Paper scissors
- Measuring tape
To draft this flared skirt pattern, you will need the following measurements. In this pattern, I’m using size 40. For more information on how to measure them you can refer to my pervious post.
- Waist : 70
- Hip : 98
- Hip Depth : 20
- Skirt length :60
How to draft a-Line skirt pattern?
Step 1: Skirt front and back
Design the straight skirt pattern up to the designing side darts.
- Draw a rectangle 60cm long (skirt length) and 50cm wide (1/2 hip plus 1 to 2 cm ease).
- Mark the center point of 1-8 and squared down.
- From point 6 marks up 1 cm. Draw a small line from this point, parallel to the line 1-8.
Step 2: Calculating side seam curve and front and back darts
Follow the in instruction to calculate the size of the side seam curve and front and back darts.
- Mark the ½ waistline plus (0.5 to 1 cm) on the waistline (Point 11). The remaining amount should be subtracted of the side seam and the back and front darts.
This amount is 14cm for size 40 plus 1cm ease in the waist and hip.
- We’ll subtract the one-half amount of side seam and another half one front and back darts
- Total side seam curves: 14/2=7cm
- Side seam curve in front pattern: (7/2) + 0.5 = 4cm
- Side seam curve in back pattern: (7/2) – 0.5 =3cm.
Step 3: Designing the side seam curve
- Let’s start from the side seam curve. From point 10 on the drawn line. Measure the calculated amount for side seam in the front pattern (4cm) to the right and mark.
- Connect point 10 to the line (6-8) with a hip curve ruler.
- Front point 10 on the drawn line measure the calculated amount for side seam in the back pattern (3cm) to the left and mark.
- Connect point 10 to 6-1 line with a curve ruler.
step 4: front pattern slash line
- Divide line 2- 5 into three equal sections. Mark the first one third and square up and down. This is the cutting line.
- Mark one half of the front dart on both sides of the top point.
- The dart point is placed 3cm above the hip line.
- Draw and connect dart legs to the point.
step 5: back pattern slash line
- Divide the line 4-5 into three equal sections.
- Mark the first one third of the back center line (CB) and square up and down.
- On the waist line and on both sides of cutting line, mark one half of the back dart. Then connect these two points to the dart point. It placed 3cm above the hip line.
- Cut the slash line of front and back pattern from down to dart point and cut one of the dart legs.
Step 6: Adding Flare
- Trace a narrow pattern paper to one of these cut pieced and secure.
- Then, you have to add 3 to 6 cm flare to the skirt hemline. To do this, put the tangent state on the other piece of pattern form dart point.
- Consider 3 to 6 cm as fullness for the skirt hemline. The fullness size of the skirt hemline should be exactly the same in front and back patterns.
- So if you ‘ve considered 3cm as fullness for the front pattern, therefore, you have to add the same size fullness for the back pattern.
- You have to add fullness in side seam as the half-size that flared on the slash line. To do this, paste a narrow pattern paper to side seam.
- So mark out form point 7 as one half of the flared size.
- Connect point 5 to that point.
- Redesign the edge of the skirt hemline with a curve ruler. (the parts that flared)
Do the same steps for back pattern.
Transfering remaining excess
Step 7: Transfering remaining excess of the front dart
Now, it’s time to design the dart. Let’s start from the front pattern. Measure the remaining excess of the front dart with a ruler.
- If the dart is completely closed, you don’t need to do any changed.
- If the remaining amount of dart is less 1cm so, it is better to transfer the excess to side seam. To do this mark inward 1cm into the side seam and redesign the side seam curve with a curve ruler.
- If the dart closed more than its size, You should add the same size that subtracted of waist size should be added to the side seam.
To do this, mark out form side seam the same amount that subtracted before. Then redesign the side seam curve with a curve ruler.
- If the remaining amount of dart is more than 1 cm, you have to redesign the front dart in its correct location (6-8 cm form side seam). For more info, refer to the straight skirt pattern.
- From the side seam mark 6 to 8 cm. it is the dart centerline. Square down 11 to 13 cm.
- Mark half of remaining amount of dart on both side of dart centerline. Connect these two point to the dart point.
- Close the dart and redesign the top edge of the skirt with a curve ruler.
step 8: Transfering remaining excess of the back dart
We usually design a dart in the center for the back pattern
- Measure the reaming amount of dart and write it down.
- Then redesign the top edge curve of skirt measure the top edge section of the skirt with a tape measure (in the standing statement). mark its center point. Form this point square down 13 to 15cm.
- Mark half remaining amount of the dart on both side of the line. Then connect them to the dart point.
- Close the back dart and redesign the top edge of the skirt with a curve ruler.
The A-line flared skirt pattern is ready
It will teach you how to cut it in future posts. meanwhile, if you are interested in sewing and you don’t know how to start, you can refer to the sewing course for beginners in sarvinstyle.
Translated by : Mina Khosravi