How to Design Basic Skirt Pattern in Muller Drafting System

Basic Skirt Pattern in Muller Drafting System

how to draft skirt pattern

Hello Friends, Today it’s time to learn how to design a Basic Skirt Pattern in Muller method. If it is your first time in drafting, do not worry, you can easily design your first pattern by doing the following steps. So get the pattern making tools described in previous post and  start working with me.

Drafting Basic Skirt Pattern in Muller Drafting system

  • To design a base skirt pattern, you need to take  waist, hip,  skirt height, and hip measurements. For more information on how to measure them, you can refer to my previous post (Muller Template Tutorial).

For all pattern making tutorials I use standard size 40 , but you can create patterns with your own measurements. Do not forget that if your have a abnormal body shape for example big abdomen , you need more knowledge for altering the pattern that is not included in this post.

  1. Waist :72
  2. Hip :102
  3. Hip depth : 22
  4. Skirt Length :60
Basic Skirt Pattern Drafting tutorial
  • A-B = Skirt length
  • A-C = 1/2 hip
  • C-D = Skirt length
  • Connect D to B.
  • A-E = Hip depth
    square out from E to F
  • Find the middle point of A and C square down to the bottom. (M-N)
    This line is the sidebar of the pattern
  • The right half  is the front pattern and the left half in back pattern of the skirt.

The formula for calculating the skirt darts

The size of the waist is narrower than the hips, so by giving darts, we should eliminate this difference on the line. The sizes of the back and front darts are calculated in the following way.

Formula
Calculated values ​​for size 40
Difference of waist and hips hip – waist  /2 102 -72 = 30 /2 =15
Total back Darts Difference of waist and hips / 2 + 1 15 / 2 = 7.5 + 1 = 8.5
Total front Darts Difference of waist and hips / 2 – 1 15 / 2 = 7.5 – 1 = 6.5
back dart Total back Darts / 2 8.5 / 2 = 4.25
front dart Total front Darts / 2 6.5 / 2 = 3.25

Side Seam Curve

Do the following steps to design side seam curve

  • M-K= back Dart
    square up 1 to 1/5 cm (K-P)
  • M-J= front Dart
    square up 1 to 1/5 cm (J-Q)
  • Draw side Seam curve using skirt curve rule
Drafting skirt basic pattern

Designing skirt front and back darts

  • Mark midpoint A to K, square down to the point of the hip depth minus 3. This line is the center line of back dart.
  • Mark midpoint C to J, square down to the point of the hip depth minus 3. This line is the center line of front dart.
  • Mark 1/2 Back Dart at the two side of back dart center line, draw lines form this two point to the end point of back dart center-line.
  • Mark 1/2 Front Dart at the two side of front dart center-line, draw lines form this two point to the end point of front dart center-line.
How to make basic skirt pattern in muller drafting system
  • With hip curve ruler, draw waistline From 1/3 (A-K ) to P
  • With hip curve ruler, draw waistline From 1/3 (C-J) to Q

Designing the Skirt hemline

  • With a hip curve ruler, draw skirt hem line from  1/3 (B-N)  to 1 to 1.5 centimeters above N.
  • With a hip curve ruler, draw skirt hem line from  1/3 (D-N)  to 1 to 1.5 centimeters above N.

1 to 1.5 centimeters is not constant and varies according to limb

Basic Skirt Pattern Making tutorual

Control your waist and hip circumference. Your base skirt pattern is ready.

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