Hi friends, today I will teach you how to take the body measurements for pattern making. Taking accurate body measurements is one of the keys to great fit and it is critical to the success of every thing you make. It looks simple but when I first began drafting I really struggled with taking the right measurements. Measuring the the wrong point will apply to the pattern and the your garment. So you should have a much better understanding to start taking measurements.
Preparing for Measuring
- Print the personal measurement chart
- Have a friend to assist you in measuring and recording
- The model should wear a bodysuit or leotard, but before wearing it, you should lay garment flat and Draw a line down the center front and back with tailor’s chalk. This indicate your center line.
- For creating the nice neckline shape use a piece of heavy string or a delicate chain necklace around model’s neck. It should lays in the back at big bone at the top of the spine (dominant bone) and in the hollow area in the front (center of the clavicle bone).
Marking Measurement Points
Marking the measurement points will make things much easier. You simply move the tape around measuring point from one to the other.
- Neck Points : mark center of the clavicle bone at center front and the dominant bone (nape) at center back neck, the necklace should touch them.
- Shoulder tip points : mark the end of the shoulder where if you press down you feel a knobby bone there.
- Armhole depth: This was the most confusing point for me. This point horizontally located at the side seam and vertically it should be located about ½ to 1 inch under the armpit. The best way is to put on a t-shirt and look under your arm and mark where the seams come together in a cross. You shouldn’t mark it too high or too low because it would pull the sleeve up into armpit or make armhole drop too low.
- Mid-Armhole : this is halfway between the shoulder tip point and the armhole depth point.
Setting Elastic Lines
Use narrow elastic and safety pin or clip to secure around the body. This lines should be parallel to the floor
- Bust : Across bust points and back.
- Waist : Around waist.
- Abdomen: Three inches below waist.
- Hip : widest area of hip with tape parallel with floor.
Taking the measurements
Tip : Always measure both sides of the body. Use the larger of the two measurements. But If the two measurements are very different, record them both. In this cause You should create separate patterns for each side and blend them together.
- Across shoulder (14): Shoulder tip to center front neck.
- Across chest (15). Center front to 1 inch above mid-armhole (pinhead mark).
- Bust arc (17). Center front, over bust point, ending 2 inches below armplate at side seam.
- Bust span (10). Place tape across bust points; divide in half for measurement.
- Waist arc (19). Center front waist to side waist seam.
- Dart placement (20). Center front to side front (princess line).
- Abdomen arc (22). Center front to side seam, starting 3 inches down from waist.
- Hip arc (23). Center front to side seam on HBL line.
- Hip depth (25). Center front to HBL line.
- Back neck (12). Center back neck to shoulder at neck.
- Across shoulder (14). Shoulder tip to center back neck.
- Across back (16). Center back to 1 inch above the mid-armhole at ridge of pinhead.
- Back arc (18). Center back to bottom of arm plate.
- Waist arc (19). Center back waist to side waist seam.
- Dart placement (20). Center back waist to side back (princess line).
- Abdomen arc (22). Center back to side seam, starting 3 inches down from waist.
- Hip arc (23). Center back to side seam on HBL line.
- Hip depth (25). Center back waist to HBL line.
- Side length (11). Pin mark below armplate at side seam to side waist.
- Shoulder length (13). Shoulder tip to neck.
- Side hip depth (26). Side waist to HBL, on side of form being measured.
- Crotch depth (24) : Side Waist Point to Chair, this measurement is taken with the model seated.
- Bust radius (9). Measure from bust point ending under bust mound to rib above.
- Center length (5). Mark neck to waist (over bridge).
- Full length (6). Waist to shoulder at neck, parallel with center lines.
- Shoulder slope (7). Center line at waist to the shoulder tip (mark).
- Bust depth (9). Shoulder tip to bust point.